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On Manono, a
small island not far from the main island, Upolu, there seemed
to exist a pocket of the past. Here are several of the more
elegant traditional houses of the sort the people of Manono
were still living in back then. Manono lies off the western
tip of Upolu, within the larger island's fringing reef.
In ancient days,
Manono held rather more political power than this small
island's size would suggest. In part this was because the
island served as a fortress to which in troubled times its
inhabitants and their relatives could retire to comparative
safety. |
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| I was walking along the path with
friends, going from one village to another. This young girl had been
climbing coconut trees to gather niu, or drinking nuts. |
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| An extended family's untitled men
taule'ale'a) comprise its work force and muscle and its chief's power
base. Immensely proud of their aiga (extended family) and loyal to it,
they stand as a potential army should another aiga infringe on their
land rights or disturb the peace of the village. While the village
Council of Chiefs makes rules and regulations, and fines or otherwise
punishes individuals who break the rules, the untitled men sometimes
enforce the chiefs' dictates. For important ceremonies, the untitled
men must kill and cook the pigs, build the rock ovens, cook the meat,
gather and cook the taro, ta'amu, and coconuts, go fishing for the
fish, and do most of the actual labour involved in preparing for the
usual distribution of food and goods. It is the taule'ale'a's place to
work hard and follow orders.
The Samoan social system contains checks and balances that tend to
restrain any unreasonably demanding matai. Since Samoans can lay claim
to membership in any aiga they can trace their genealogical
relationship to, and, since most Samoans, if they really do their
research among their relatives, can trace relationships to half a
dozen or more extended families, they have many escape hatches. In an
unbearable living situation, they have the option of moving in with
relatives across the village, district, or island, or even to an
altogether different island, to stay with other relatives in a
different aiga. To lay claim to membership in the new family, they
must be able to trace their genealogies and show that they are indeed
related. This happens often. In this way, an unreasonable chief soon
finds himself deserted in his home, with only his immediate nuclear
family, but without a core of other untitled supporters to do his work
and bidding. |
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Manono Island,
Fale Samoa & Men's Work in Samoa
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During that 1968, Richard A. Goodman ventured out
and stayed on the island
of Manono and in Fa'a'la Village in Paulauli (Savai'i) and both
Fasito'otai and Falealili on Upolu.
The interior of a Samoan home is conceived and constructed
according to an age-old traditional design, under the supervision of
an experienced tufuga, or carpenter. The timbers are
generally pou muli, a light, firm wood. The thatching
(consisting of woven sugarcane sections tied together with sennit, a
rope made from braiding together the fibres taken
from coconut husks) is placed in overlapping rows and effectively
prevents rain
from dripping in. Not only does the traditional Samoan fale
have the greatest beauty of any traditional South Pacific home, but
it is also ideal for the climate. A westernized "fale" with a
roof of corrugated iron radiates heat down into the structure and
can be most uncomfortable. The walls of western-style wooden houses
prevent breezes from cooling the interior. For sheer comfort in the
hot Pacific climate, nothing surpasses the traditional Samoan
fale.

Back in 1968, the
majority of Western Samoans outside Apia lived in traditional Samoan
fale, which I photographed in Paulauli District on the "big
island," Savai'i. The thatched roofing is made of sugarcane leaves,
while the blinds hanging down inside are woven of coconut leaves.
The posts supporting the roof were made from a particularly straight
species of tree called pou muli that was sometimes planted in
small groves in the forest and allowed to grow for five or ten years
before harvesting.
Thirty years ago, life in the villages was difficult, and it
probably still is now. Everyone worked hard. As soon as children
could walk, they were given the task of fetching things for their
elders. Young girls took care of younger children and also helped by
doing the laundry under a freshwater pipe or in the river. Young
boys accompanied their fathers and uncles to the plantations, where
they helped plant and harvest taro. Sometimes they also went
fishing. Often they were sent to catch freshwater shrimp in a nearby
river. Even old men, no longer able to work strenuously, sat around
in the fale, drinking coffee or cocoa Samoa, and talking with
companions of their own age as they rolled sennit fibres into twine
or rope. Older women kept busy weaving house mats or ie toga.
While perhaps one in 20
Samoans receives a title from his aiga and becomes a "chief,"
the majority don't attain this status. Here an untitled man, Kolio,
smokes a cigarette after a long, hard day of work. As an untitled
man, Kolio's job was to do the bidding of his chief or the household
head, who in this case was his older brother, Nikolao, also an
untitled man.
>
When I knew Kolio in
1967-69, he worked very hard. He spent his time planting taro, going
out into the forest in search of firewood to carry home (sometimes
huge logs), chopping wood, fishing at the reef, planting bananas,
taro, and breadfruit, gathering materials for mending the family's
old house or for new construction, and doing a host of other chores
that kept him busy from dawn until dusk.
I don't know if Kolio is still alive, but I know that his life
for years was one of hard toil, which he performed patiently and
with great devotion. If he is still alive, I hope that, like many
other older Samoans, he now spends his time relaxing in the fale,
chatting with other men of his own age, rolling sennit from coconut
husk fibers across his thighs, and being served by younger people,
as is certainly his due.
We tend to forget what life was like 50 or 60 years ago, when
almost no one had television and when people actually sat around
after dinner and talked to each other. In the late 1960s, in Western
Samoa, villagers still lived this way. They sat around a Coleman
lantern, drinking Samoan cocoa (in the metal pot, above), comparing
notes about what each person had done that day, speculating about
which villager was up to what, exchanging rumor and gossip, and
wondering what the coming day would bring. The houses in a village
were almost all within sight of each other, which made both visiting
and prying into other people's business easy.
These photographs and explanations represent Samoan culture and
Samoa village life as it
was from 1968 through 1984. We gratefully acknowledge
Richard A. Goodman's
work and
his kind approval to use his photos and commentary.
More from Richard A. Goodman on
Traditional Samoa Village Life & Customs;
Women's Work in Samoa and Samoan Traditions and Church life;
Samoan
Tattoo.
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Life for the young untitled men—the
taule'ale'a—was full of work from dawn until well after dusk. The
young man in this photo, for instance, probably awoke at dawn,
started the cooking fire for breakfast, served food to his chief and
elders, then walked five miles to his family's garden plot and spent
the rest of the morning and early afternoon planting taro or
bananas. Around mid-afternoon, he would return to the village laden
with 60 pounds or more of produce, take his family's outrigger canoe
(above), and go fishing across the lagoon near the reef, where he
would spend an hour or more spearing the small reef fish that form
the normal protein staple of the rural Samoan's diet.
His fishing finished, he'd return
home, wash the salt water off himself with fresh water, and do more
cooking. Again he'd serve a meal to his chief and elders, sitting
obediently at the back of the room where he could watch and
anticipate their needs. He'd eat his own dinner only after they were
finished. Then he'd wait until his chief and elders dismissed him.
Only then could he fully relax.
To
be an untitled man in Samoa isn't easy. The daily work is often
heavy, demanding, and onerous. Under a reasonable chief, an untitled
man's role is bearable—and it certainly has its moments of fun,
amusement, and pleasure, evenings spent sitting in the darkness on
the village road, strumming guitars and singing, or hunting under
cover of darkness for a girlfriend, or even gathering with other
untitled men to make and drink a batch of home brew. Under the
authority of a demanding and unreasonable matai, however, an
untitled man's role may be only a step or two removed from being in
a chain gang. |
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Four or five miles from the center of Faala Village in Palauli District,
Savai'i, a guardhouse had been constructed adjacent to the only path
leading to most of the village's family plantations. Plantation theft has
been a great problem, and this was how Faala prevented it. The untitled
man in at lower right is bringing home the taro and other crops he's
harvested. He's carrying them in baskets slung on a strong stick (amo)
across his back. The watchman notes each basket's contents so that later,
if fields or trees have been stripped by thieves, the culprit can be
identified.
Incidentally, if you think life in Samoa is one of easy sloth, try
carrying 60 or 70 pounds this way for five miles. Several times weekly,
most untitled men in this village did this.
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